As we drove from Shiretoko to Akan National Park we did not realize that a typhoon was coming our way. We arrived in Akan right about nightfall as we like to time things. It was raining and for some reason I had a strong urge to stay indoors!? Unfortunately the nearest hostel was full. We found the campground but as we tried driving in to find a spot we were flagged down by some people nearby. They explained that the campground was closed due to the coming typhoon for fear of trees falling on tents. This was one of many fortuitous meetings that Todd just seems to attract with his easy going, faithful attitude. The man who informed us about the campground, just so happened to be partying with friends across the street from the campground. He spoke great English and did business many times in Seattle. He was eager to help us because he has been helped many times on his trips to America! He proceeded to take us to another campground that was also closed. He ended up making a deal with his friend to let us stay at a "biker inn". We scored a cheap, dry tatami room for the night. We stayed in the center window room in the upper left picture. All night we heard strong winds and pounding rain. We were very blessed to be warm and dry.
The next day we woke up to more wind, rain and fallen branches. We had planned to hike and explore the National Park. We ended up seeing a lot of the park in its typhoon state. Above are the park's three lakes with rocky waters and covered in fog. I would have really liked to ride one of the duck boats but no chance that day.
This is the Lake Mashu a crater lake. It is pictured covered in complete fog in the first set of pictures. Fortunately, a bit farther down the road was another viewpoint where we could see the lake!
We got a hike in around Lake Akan, home of the marimo. We came across a scalding beach with bubbling hot mud volcanoes, bokke.
Here is Maekan-dake the active volcano in Akan National Park. It has bright yellow sulphuric rocks. As a result lots of great hot springs in the area.
We ended up staying the night in Akan. Our hope was that we could stick around for the typhoon to pass and have a chance to take a boat on the lake to where the marimo live. That gave us a chance to explore the Ainu village. The Ainu are the native people of Hokkaido. They have many crafts similar to the northwest Native Americans. We enjoyed an Ainu dance and music show as well as the Ainu cuisine. I ate a delicious curry rice!
"A marimo is a rare growth form of the species where the algae grow into large green balls with a velvety appearance. Colonies of such balls are only known to form in
Iceland, Scotland, Japan and Estonia." When were we ever going to see algae balls this rare again! We decided to take a boat to where they live...much to our disappointment the boat took us to an island where the marimo are preserved in aquariums. That is one BIG algae ball! Oh well the boat ride provided nice views of the lake. That afternoon, it was time to hit the road to the Hokkaido wine and cheese country, Ikeda! We visited a wine "factory" and a dairy. Although we expected to visit several but there was only one of each in this town. The dairy was yummy, we had a cow picnic. We enjoyed rose wine, cheese and bread. The dairy also makes delicious ice cream that added a finishing touch to our happy picnic.
Finally it was time to head back to Sapporo, return our rental car and say goodbye to Hokkaido and Todd. I was taking a midnight ferry to Hachinohe so this gave us time to venture back into downtown Sapporo and enjoy the Autumn Festival. This time around the weather was perfect.
While we waited for the subway, we were befriended by an older Japanese man. He initiated a conversation with English asking about Todd's height and shoe size. The train came and I figured that was the end of that but he ended up continuing the conversation through the subway ride, to the festival as we deliberated our dinner options. He insisted that he would buy us dinner for being his English conversation teachers. He bought Todd a beer. Then as mysteriously as we met, he had to leave. Not only did the festival have Japanese cuisine but they had an international section. We ended up eating Indian. I couldn't pass up the curry and naan! Then later we had Hokkaido cheese fondue.
Finally before my train left for the ferry, we had some time to shop. The train station happened to be connected to a great mall with Top Shop, Gap, etc. I didn't find any thing I liked but it was fun looking.
Goodbye to Todd, he stayed in Hokkaido for another week to hike in Daisetsuzan, and I was headed back to Hachinohe and work with memories of great adventures.
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